How it began
The origins of the mokorotlo are unclear. Its conical shape is widely believed to be modeled on Mount Qiloane, a conical hill in Lesotho. Another suggestion, less well sourced, is that the Basotho adopted the form after seeing a similar hat worn by the Cape Malays.
The historian Scott Rosenberg places its adoption in the early 20th century, when chiefs began wearing the hat at village gatherings called pitso and singing a song also known as mokorotlo to rally support. At first it was worn only by men at such gatherings. Designs for women appeared in the 1950s.
How it works
The mokorotlo is a cone-shaped hat woven from an indigenous grass known as mosea or leholi, finished with a knotted top. Besides being worn, it is hung in Basotho homes, where it shows that the household keeps its customs and its ties to the ancestors, and is thought to protect the home from harm. The word also names a group of men's songs, poems and a dance linked to war and initiation.
Where it stands today
The hat is a national symbol of Lesotho and part of Basotho national dress. Its image sits at the center of the national flag and appears on vehicle license plates. It is worn by both men and women as a sign of national identity and pride, with traditional Sotho clothing.