How it began
The ak-kalpak is a traditional Kyrgyz men's hat made of white felt. UNESCO describes its making as a traditional Kyrgyz handicraft, a cumulative and evolving body of knowledge passed down by craftswomen. The sources consulted give no date for its first appearance. Wikipedia notes that the word passed into Russian as kolpak in the fifteenth century.
How it works
Sheep's wool is felted, and four pieces of white felt are cut and sewn together into an elongated cap, which is worn with the lower edge rolled up to form a small rim. Patterns are then embroidered on it. UNESCO lists the skills involved as felting, cutting, sewing and pattern embroidery. More than eighty kinds of ak-kalpak are distinguished, decorated with different patterns. The hat has edging lines along its four seams and tassels on top.
Who pushed back
In early 2018 draft proposals in Kyrgyzstan sought to give the hat the formal status of a cultural symbol. They would have made it compulsory for the president, ministers and dignitaries at official ceremonies and international meetings, introduced a fine for disrespecting the ak-kalpak, and prohibited its import.
What lasted
UNESCO records that the hat resembles a snow peak, with four sides standing for air, water, fire and earth, and that the tassels symbolize the memory of ancestors. It unites different Kyrgyz tribes and communities and makes Kyrgyz people recognizable to other ethnic groups. Members of other ethnic groups wear it on holidays or days of mourning to express unity and sympathy.
Where it stands today
The craft was inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2019. Workshops across the country pass on the skills through oral coaching, hands-on training and joint making. A nationwide project in 2013, titled From generation to generation, documented traditional techniques and produced an exhibition and a book. Ak-kalpak Day has been celebrated on March 5 since 2017.
